Adelaide Hills

The Adelaide Hills is home to around 30 cellar doors, most of which spread around a large area and thus of no use to someone traveling exclusively via public transport. The exception can be found around the old German town of Hahndorf, where one can find 'The Lane', 'Nepenthe', 'Shaw + Smith' and 'Hahndorf Hill' all (just about) in walking distance – it's a bit of a day excursion though, and you'll cover quite a few km's in the process. The German influences in the town give an added bonus of fine beers for one, if one wishes, to taste at a local tavern. 'Shaw + Smith' was the only vineyard not visited, sadly, as it only opens to visitors on a weekend which is a real shame from my perspective as it's probably the vineyard most synonymous with the Adelaide Hills. Worry not, though, as the others, and in particular 'The Lane' more than compensated with wine of excellent quality. 'The Lane' stands out not only because of its philosophy to make Australian wines in a much more noticeable European mold but because its staff are the friendliest I've met.
Wine from the Hills will generally be fairly difficult to source back in the UK given that most producers are firmly in the boutique category, although both 'The Lane' and 'Nepenthe' deal with M+S and Waitrose. The bad news is that they generally only send their mass market labels over, so we miss out on the really good stuff. If, however, you do stumble upon some single vineyard Hills wine, buy some immediately – you wont regret it, and as this region is destined for great things you'll be one step ahead of the competition. None other than Andrew Jefford himself has pronounced the Adelaide Hills as key to Australia's wine future.

The Lane 'Gathering' Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
On the nose the European/Australian project is noticeable – particularly compared to Margaret River blends – with the fruit (tropical) and citrus having to share the stage with mineral characteristics and a slight tastiness courtesy of the small percentage of the Sauvignon that has been aged in French oak. The palate – following the nose nicely - is long, with the citrus and, in particular, the mineral notes adding length where the fruit falls off. [I was also given a bottle of this wine free, which confirms my earlier point of 'the Lane' having particularly good staff. Joking aside, the staff genuinely know about the wines and how they're made, probably as a result of the owners commitment to making Australian wines in a European (French) mold.]

Block 2 Pinot Gris 2009
Particularly Alsatian in style, expressing notes of spiced apple and pear. One the palate the spiced fruit is joined by some subtle floral notes and a noticeable savory edge. Green in colour, unlike the 08 which, I'm told, had a slight pinkishness to it. Much more complex, and interesting, than your standard (Australian or Italian) Pinot Grigio.

19th Meeting Single Vineyard Cab. Sauv. 2007
Pronounced red and black fruit on the nose, with the delightful addition of a blueberry and a noticeable violet perfume. Again, this wine has been made in a cooler climate (for Australia) and in a deliberate European style. The fruit on the palate is joined by mocha and cedar spice giving the wine length on the mid-palate where some cabernets have been known to fail. Tannins are velvety smooth, and a nice line of acidity runs though resulting in a well integrated wine with real finesse.

Nepenthe 'Ithaca' Chardonnay 2006
Stonefruit dominates the palate, but the 11 months in French oak has plenty to add to this wine. On the palate the vanillin from the oak is beautifully integrated with the fruit, and the wine benefits from a slight nuttiness and a good line of acidity which carries the finish well. Apparently this won a 'Best Aussie Chardonnay' award from someone, and while its good, at $38 you can go to Margs and get something noticeably better.

Nepenthe Savagnin 2009Planted under the assumption that the vines were something else (I can't remember what), Nepenthe have decided to have a go with savagnin. Concerning the grape itself, I can't tell you much because its not something I'm familiar with. Nepenthe's example however is dominated by delicate citrus fruit with a very very slight perfume. Fresh, crisp and a good match for seafood.

Nepenthe 'The Good Doctor' Pinot Noir 2008
Nepenthe also do an entry level Pinot – the Charleston – but those who that prefer their new world Pinot to be more old world would prefer the 'good doctor'. Although that isn't to say its fully old world in style, and far removed from a Burgundy. Typical fed fruits dominate, but the understated presence of vegetal, herby notes gives it a more complex and satisfying edge. The youth of the wine is, however, its enemy. A few years are needed to fully integrate the these flavours, but in a few years it should be a winner.

Nepenthe Tempranillo 2008
A fairly complex nose of candied red/blue/black fruits, spice and savory chocolate aromas. Juicy redcurrant and cherry dominate the palate, aided with a hint of spice, with fine and restrained tannin giving some complexity to the fairly powerful fruit.