A Walk On The Wine Side

Adelaide Hills

2010-02-26T01:18:00.000-08:00

The Adelaide Hills is home to around 30 cellar doors, most of which spread around a large area and thus of no use to someone traveling exclusively via public transport. The exception can be found around the old German town of Hahndorf, where one can find 'The Lane', 'Nepenthe', 'Shaw + Smith' and 'Hahndorf Hill' all (just about) in walking distance – it's a bit of a day excursion though, and you'll cover quite a few km's in the process. The German influences in the town give an added bonus of fine beers for one, if one wishes, to taste at a local tavern. 'Shaw + Smith' was the only vineyard not visited, sadly, as it only opens to visitors on a weekend which is a real shame from my perspective as it's probably the vineyard most synonymous with the Adelaide Hills. Worry not, though, as the others, and in particular 'The Lane' more than compensated with wine of excellent quality. 'The Lane' stands out not only because of its philosophy to make Australian wines in a much more noticeable European mold but because its staff are the friendliest I've met.
Wine from the Hills will generally be fairly difficult to source back in the UK given that most producers are firmly in the boutique category, although both 'The Lane' and 'Nepenthe' deal with M+S and Waitrose. The bad news is that they generally only send their mass market labels over, so we miss out on the really good stuff. If, however, you do stumble upon some single vineyard Hills wine, buy some immediately – you wont regret it, and as this region is destined for great things you'll be one step ahead of the competition. None other than Andrew Jefford himself has pronounced the Adelaide Hills as key to Australia's wine future.

The Lane 'Gathering' Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008
On the nose the European/Australian project is noticeable – particularly compared to Margaret River blends – with the fruit (tropical) and citrus having to share the stage with mineral characteristics and a slight tastiness courtesy of the small percentage of the Sauvignon that has been aged in French oak. The palate – following the nose nicely - is long, with the citrus and, in particular, the mineral notes adding length where the fruit falls off. [I was also given a bottle of this wine free, which confirms my earlier point of 'the Lane' having particularly good staff. Joking aside, the staff genuinely know about the wines and how they're made, probably as a result of the owners commitment to making Australian wines in a European (French) mold.]

Block 2 Pinot Gris 2009
Particularly Alsatian in style, expressing notes of spiced apple and pear. One the palate the spiced fruit is joined by some subtle floral notes and a noticeable savory edge. Green in colour, unlike the 08 which, I'm told, had a slight pinkishness to it. Much more complex, and interesting, than your standard (Australian or Italian) Pinot Grigio.

19th Meeting Single Vineyard Cab. Sauv. 2007
Pronounced red and black fruit on the nose, with the delightful addition of a blueberry and a noticeable violet perfume. Again, this wine has been made in a cooler climate (for Australia) and in a deliberate European style. The fruit on the palate is joined by mocha and cedar spice giving the wine length on the mid-palate where some cabernets have been known to fail. Tannins are velvety smooth, and a nice line of acidity runs though resulting in a well integrated wine with real finesse.

Nepenthe 'Ithaca' Chardonnay 2006
Stonefruit dominates the palate, but the 11 months in French oak has plenty to add to this wine. On the palate the vanillin from the oak is beautifully integrated with the fruit, and the wine benefits from a slight nuttiness and a good line of acidity which carries the finish well. Apparently this won a 'Best Aussie Chardonnay' award from someone, and while its good, at $38 you can go to Margs and get something noticeably better.

Nepenthe Savagnin 2009Planted under the assumption that the vines were something else (I can't remember what), Nepenthe have decided to have a go with savagnin. Concerning the grape itself, I can't tell you much because its not something I'm familiar with. Nepenthe's example however is dominated by delicate citrus fruit with a very very slight perfume. Fresh, crisp and a good match for seafood.

Nepenthe 'The Good Doctor' Pinot Noir 2008
Nepenthe also do an entry level Pinot – the Charleston – but those who that prefer their new world Pinot to be more old world would prefer the 'good doctor'. Although that isn't to say its fully old world in style, and far removed from a Burgundy. Typical fed fruits dominate, but the understated presence of vegetal, herby notes gives it a more complex and satisfying edge. The youth of the wine is, however, its enemy. A few years are needed to fully integrate the these flavours, but in a few years it should be a winner.

Nepenthe Tempranillo 2008
A fairly complex nose of candied red/blue/black fruits, spice and savory chocolate aromas. Juicy redcurrant and cherry dominate the palate, aided with a hint of spice, with fine and restrained tannin giving some complexity to the fairly powerful fruit.

Voyager Estate Gardens

2010-02-15T02:38:00.000-08:00

This photo of part of Voyager Estates' gardens that came out better than I imagined it would. As I've previously mentioned, Voyagers gardens are as good as its wines.

Western Australia's South

2010-02-11T02:55:00.000-08:00

From what I can gather, and from the people I've met since I've been down here, the South of Western Australia appears to be fairly neglected on most backpackers itineraries. For many reasons this is a real shame because the area is certainly as beautiful as any other that I've seen anywhere in the world. There's plenty of things to keep you out of trouble, from surfing (and river-related activities) to winery visiting (and if you do wine tasting forget going on a tour; turn up to the cellar door with a bit of enthusiasm and I guarantee you'll have a better experience and it'll cost you nothing more than good manners) to natural parks and natural/man-made wonders. And then there are the beaches, which, like the previous three activities, are a free resource, and they're absolutely immaculate . You don't have to go on (expensive) tours with other backpackers to have a good time and 'see' Australia. Indeed, though I say this with limited Australian experience, you're less likely to 'see' the 'real' Australia on a backpackers/tourist tour. Speak to the locals and you'll have a much more complete visit and better memory's to take away. It might be a cliché, but there's a reason why it's so often repeated.
Which brings me back to the South of Western Australia. This is where Australians go to get away from it all – precisely because, I expect, it's off the backpackers trail. It has a genuine calmness and a tranquility, and not just the hyperbole so often found on the back of brochure. So while it's a shame that so many people miss out on this wonderful part of Australia, the paradox is that it's the absence of (and I had to use such a crude and generalizing term) 'the masses' that makes the place so enchanting – and refreshing - for those (comparative) few who do venture off the beaten track.

Margs Cont'd.

2010-02-08T04:44:00.000-08:00

After the relatively easy ride round the vineyards south of the town came the much more strenuous trek north. The main concentration of MR vineyards are to be found about 25km north of the town itself, between Cowaramup and Yallingup. The problem wasn't with the distances but with the intermediate activities involved, the collateral damage, of the trek there and back. The south is noticeably cooler than Perth and its environs but 27 degrees is still fairly warm; combine the heat with some alcohol and you're going to get a little bit dizzy. Nevertheless it's an excellent ride – I'd recommend taking the 'Rails to Trails' track from MR to Cowaramup which travels through some of the beautiful forest that the South-West is famed for. Given the greater distances I only visited 4 vineyards by bicycle – Howard Park & Madfish, Juniper, Vasse Felix and Cullen – but added Flying Fish Cove, Saracen and Willespie thanks to my new roommate at the Surfpoint hostel, Ant (and his car), and to whom I'm very grateful. In total I've tasted about 150 wines in the Margaret River and the quality is quite simply stunning. MR is premium chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon territory, and by getting yourself to the vineyards there's a good chance you're going to get the opportunity to taste some of the best examples of these grape varieties the New World – if not the wine producing World in general – has to offer, and it'll probably be free. And if that isn't reason enough to go and visit then the stunning scenery, pristine beaches (with world-class surf) and friendly folk really should be. And if you dive there's a chance you could catch yourself some of the biggest cray-fish I've ever seen*, as the aforementioned Ant did. No joke, it was about the size of a mans torso (*I haven't seen many cray-fish in my time, but I know what's a bit one when I see it).

Given the number of vineyard visited I'm only going to review one in any sort of depth – Vasse Felix. (Also, and I wont lie, I much prefer spending time at the beach/in the river than writing these reviews. Maybe if it rains I'll write much more detailed notes). The wines are of the highest quality and the cellar door is stunning (like most in the Margaret River, it must be said). However, very special mention must go to Cullen wines (the next-door neighbors of Vasse) who also produce some brilliant and very interesting wines (the malbec x petit verdot x merlot cross Magnan in particular). If I get time I'll definitely be adding some reviews of their stuff.

Vasse Felix

2007 Heytesbury Chardonnay – A brilliant example of what chardonnay is capable of. A beautiful blend of ripe stone fruit, fresh citrus and the more savory nuances of french oak. The barrel ferment adds some beautifully soft tannin to give a long, long finish. Apparently wild yeasts are used which really give the wine a quirkiness (a la Au Bon Climat's 'Wild Boy' from California). As with Leeuwin Art Series this is right up there with the very best of them.

2009 Cane Cut Semillon – Cane cutting is another way of creating sweet wines by cutting the cane from the vine thus forcing the build up of fruit sugars (I think, but don't quote me on that). Has a prominent ginger spiciness on the nose with some citrus elements lingering in the background. Both follow though to the palate which also includes creamy lemon-curd and marmalade, but with a fresh acidity to balance the sweetness that also gives a clean finish.

2009 Tempranillo – Tempranillo is one of the main grapes of Rioja, so it's fairly surprising to find it around the MR, although Vasse Felix have managed to produce a very interesting wine. The nose has a notable perfume edge to the prominent fruit driven by cherry and raspberry (Vasse themselves use cherry-cola to describe the nose, and to be fair it's a very good tasting note) and a warm cinnamon spice. The fruit nose follows through to the palate, and subtle oak adds another layer to the wine, but with fairly assertive tannin this wine could do with a few years in bottle and a decent meal to really work.

2007 Shiraz – Another wine with noticeable confectionery on the nose. Blackberry\blackberry jam dominates but there are definite if subtle elements of anise spiciness. The palate, although more medium bodied, is full of soft ripe fruit flavors, complimented (eventually – this wine has real length to its flavors) by coffee, bitter chocolate and subtle oak.

2000 Cab. Sauv – Another wine that I was privileged to have been able to taste. As you would expect with an older wine, time has had a softening effect. Juicy dark berry fruit lingers subtly on the palate with the more savory herb, chocolate and oak-spiciness. The tannins have mellowed considerably, giving and outstanding finish. A really beautiful wine.

Botrytis Viognier

2010-02-04T03:21:00.000-08:00

*Update*

Apparently Yalubma of Australia and TW wines of Gisburne NZ both do a botrytis viognier too. Even so, with only 3 producers worldwide (as far as I can tell) it's still pretty rare stuff.

Margaret River Day One

2010-02-04T03:05:00.000-08:00

“Margaret River is as close to paradise as you can get”
Jancis Robinson

The MR is a place that appears to have enchanted all the have been fortunate enough to set foot within its boundaries. I've yet to meet someone who hasn't developed a soft spot for its lush green forestry and laid-back atmosphere. In many ways its like a small corner of a perfect summer day in England tagged on to the bottom of Australia.
Not being able to driveI decided that the best way to get around was to hire a bike so really I should call this blog A Cycle on the Wine Side, but let's not get bogged down with petty detail. I toured the MR over two days, the first going south of the town towards Augusta and the second heading up to the main concentration of vineyards towards Yallingup which, if we now concern petty detail, is about 25km from MR. Altogether I visited 9 vineyards tasting over 100 wines, but rather than list them all (which would take an age) I'll just describe the ones that, for better or worse, stood out the most.

Cape Mentelle
(One of the MR pioneers, Cape Mentelle enjoys worldwide fame, and is widely available in the UK. It's also the sister vineyard of the more famous Cloudy Bay over in NZ)

2007 Wallcliffe Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS) – A more complex nose of lemon with a slight spiciness and some nutty aromas emerge from 15 months of French oak. On the palate citrus shines through, finishing with a minerally edge. Good acidity balances the fruit with the oak giving a roundness to the wine. It's still young, but will age delightfully.

2008 Viognier – The little known, little planted viognier is one of my favorite white grapes. Fuller bodied than a chardonnay, this wine has pronounced perfume of apricot, peach, honeysuckle and a slight citrus edge which all follow onto to a light and creamy palate. The length is superb.

2009 Botrytis Viognier – Dessert wine exclusively available at the Cellar Door. Apricot and peach are evident, but the dominat flavours are the marmalade, honey and vanilla notes complimented by a slight nuttiness. For all the intense fruit the wine remains light. Will age well. Now don't quote me on this, but this might be the only Botrytis Viognier in the world and they've only bade 4 barriques (small french barrels) of the stuff. Good job I've bought some.

2007 Sangiovese – The chianti grape done MR style. Has that classic sweet-savory balance that works so well with Italian food; cherry and berry fruits on the palate carry through to some savory tannins for a good finish.

2007 Zinfandel – A rare grape in Oz, this has an intense nose of blackberry and plum with some slight dark chocolate. Hints of cinnamon spice are also evident. On the palate the juicy fruit dominates, complimented with some vanillary oakiness. A very full bodied wine.

Voyager Estate
If you get a chance to visit Voyager estate then go for it, even if you aren't interested in wine. The gardens are immaculate – apparently they employ more full time gardeners than they do winemakers. And the estate is also home to one of Australia's largest flags measuring in at an impressive 15m x 7.5m

2007 Chardonnay – Grapefruit dominates the nose, complimented with stone- and tropical- fruit, with some lovely creaminess coming though courtesy of the barrel-ferment in French oak. Has plenty of fruit on the palate yet retains complexity and finesse. One of the best chardonnays I've tasted.

2004 Cab Sauv. Merlot – 2004 was, I'm told, one of the best in recent times for MR reds and it certainly shows with this superbly balanced wine. Blackberry and plum on the nose is complimented with more savory notes of cedar and a hint of dark chocolate which all follow through to the palate. The tannins have a slight chalkiness to them which lifts the weight of the wine on the palate giving a long, lingering finish.

2004 Tom Price Cab Sauv. - The Tom Price wines at Voyager are only made in exceptional years, and are thus classed as ultra premium (with prices to match). Made in the classic Bordeaux style the nose and palate consist of dark ripe fruit, with well integrated French oak adding to the finesse. The tannins are velvety smooth but with plenty of oomph to them giving this wine some serious cellaring potential, with a stunning length to the wine. At $120 a bottle I was privileged to have sampled this superb wine.

Leeuwin Estate
2008 Sibling Series SBS – Sauvignon dominates this blend leading to a wine with some floral hints but one that is balanced with a noticeable citrus edge and more savory notes of cut grass. On the palate classic Sauvignon flavors of green apple and gooseberry come through with a very fresh and clean acidity that is balanced by the roundedness offered by barrel fermenting 1/3 in French oak.

2006 Art Series Chardonnay – 2006 was a cool year for the MR, something which is certainly evident with this wine. Green fruit and citrus dominate as a result, but there are some feint yet lingering hints of stone fruit. The palate offers the addition of a slight nuttiness, perhaps courtesy of the French oak, that compliments the citrus, green fruit, and slight stone fruit flavors that merge beautifully. The finish is exceptionally long with a staggering complexity. Another stunning example of the Chardonnay grape.

2003/4/5 Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon – I was lucky enough to be able to taste 3 consecutive vintages of this wine, the '05 having not been commercially released. Of the 3 it is the older '03 that is currently drinking better being much softer all-round. Berry fruits come through first, but are soon complimented by smooth cedary oak and mocha, with the soft tannin bringing everything together. The '04 however is probably the better of the wines; fresh nose of vibrant red and dark fruits, with a spice/herb edge and the more savory undertones of dark chocolate. Full bodied and complex with smooth tannin and a long finish, the '04 will age very well. The '05 will certainly develop with age, but could do with some more bottle age to harmonize the intense fruit with the oak and with the tannins needing a little longer to soften up.

I think that's enough for today, although I also visited Xanadu and Watershed wineries which both have an excellent porftfolio of quality wine.

Vasse Felix

2010-02-03T21:30:00.001-08:00

(Half) Swanning Around in the Swan Valley

2010-02-02T04:02:00.000-08:00

I'd been in Perth for the best part of a week. The jet lag had all but gone and I was fully settled with my hosts out in the suburb of Harrisdale. It was time to get tasting. This being my first foray into the Ozzie wine world I thought it best to go with a guide: the Swan Valley isn't particularly remote but I don't have transport and I couldn't reasonably ask my Aunt and/or Cousin to ferry me around. Plus it would be a comfortable way of easing myself back into wine-speak. So I booked a tour with a well known and supposedly reputable company, the imaginatively named 'Swan Valley Tours'. Everything was confirmed. I even phoned them not an hour before the start of the tour to confirm both my attendance and the location of the pick-up point (which was, I'd like to point out, the specifically designated tourist bus stop). So 10am comes and goes and I'm a bit concerned as they're 15mins late. I don't have a Australian mobile phone (yet) so SVT can't contact me and I can't contact them. Not to worry, and a call from a local pay-phone establishes that there is no reported problems with the bus, so just sit tight and, after the hotel pick-ups the bus will arrive. 11am come and goes and there's still no bus. I have no change. We have a problem. So I troupe off to the visitor information center just across from the Wellington Street stop that serves as my only known reference point for Perth. It's also 36ºC and I'm a bit hot and increasingly bothered and spoke to the poor receptionist with a touch more aggression than I'd planned, but she took it well and understood my plight so all was good. Another phone call later an it's established that Swan Valley Tours (the natural choice in the Swan Valley™) have forgotten to collect me from the collection point that was confirmed that very morning. They did offer me a full refund and a complimentary place on the 'Afternoon Delights' tour (which I certainly took) but I was still annoyed, mainly because I'd miss the lunch platter (which I was later informed was “fuckin' awesome mate”) and I had no real idea where I could find something of decent-value in Perth city-center and less than an hour to find and eat it.

While the day began in a frustrating fashion it ended much more amicably. The wines and beers lubricted my mood towards content, while the locally-produced produce that was offered in the various establishments (sadly none in lunch-sized portions) were excellent. Below are some of the tasting notes I made during the day.

Houghton Wines

White Classic (2008): Nose full of citrus aromas with a layer of tropical fruit, this well-known (legendary to some) wine followed through with a crisp palate of green apple and stone-fruit.

Chardonnay-Verdelho (2007): Nose laden with stone fruit, with peach dominant. The presence of peach carries itself through onto the palate along with melon, finishing with a slight citrus twinge.

Late Picked Verdelho (2008): Full on tropical fruit-fest. Has an intense ripe-fruit sweetness but isn't overpowering. Brilliant summer drinking.

Jarrah Ridge Wines

Reserve Shiraz (2005): Exhibits all the classic full-bodied Shiraz characters. Intense colour and fruit , predominantly blackberry. Hints of cedar and tobacco come from 16 months barrel aging. Aussie wine writer James Halliday reckons it to be “A little too confected”, but it certainly beats its entry level brother.

Marginata Rose (2008): A simple Rose exhibiting ripe strawberry and raspberry flavours, with perhaps a little cherry. Uncomplicated and easy drinking.

Edgecombe Brothers Wines
Sparking Chardonnay (NV): Everything you'd expect from a mass produced Chard. Crisp apple and pear notes with ample acidity.

Chardonnay (2009): A more intense chardonnay owning to the high temperatures native to the Swan Valley. Nose and palate offer ripe fruit, although there are perhaps slight hints of a citrus edge.

Shiraz (2008): Medium bodied Shiraz with almost cherry-like flavours. Vanilla flavours also come to the fore courtesy of oak ageing. The finish has a noticeable yet tempered peppery-spice to it.

Elmars In The Valley (German Brewery):

Ein Stein: Pilsner-style beer. Fruity in a beer sort of way with a hint of sweetness to compliment the bitter notes.

Rauch Dunkel Weizen (Smoked Wheat Beer): First thing to hit is the smokiness to this beer. It has an almost meaty character but remains remarkably light and very smooth. Unusual, but worth trying.

New Plantings

2010-01-11T10:52:00.000-08:00

That great philospher Confucius apparently once pronounced "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step". He wasn't wrong, but I don't think he was bang on neither.

Can I remember the wine that started me off on the vino path - the metaphorical first step? No, or at least I can't say with any authority. It might have been that ultra-chic, ultra-hip Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, but it could equally have been the blockbuster Yalumba 'The Signature'. Perhaps it was something with a little more humility. Most likely though it was none of the above, for it is unlikely that it was a single wine. More often than not there's a lot of faffing around before a journey really gets going with any sort of purpose, wine being no different. Sometimes you're just not sure where, or indeed if your really want to go. But what I can say with a little more conviction is that it when I decided that wine in generaly was pretty top-rate it was the so-called 'New World' wines that put in the hard yards and made - at least to begin with - the best impression.

Which brings us to the here and now. Sort of. Over the next 5 months or so I'm going to be travelling around Australia and New Zealand; a journey through the territory and a journey through the wines. As a geographer I'll quenching a thirst for knowledge, and, quite literally, a thirst -it's bloody hot this time of year. Now, I wont lie, one of the principle reasons for going antipodean in this adventure is that my language skills do not stretch far beyone English. But let us not forget that OZ and NZ are both (massively) enchanting nations that are almost tailor-made for budget travellers. And finally, I'm willing to bet that there's some bloody good stuff out there that they're keeping to themselves.